After passing the verdant rice terraces of Tirtagangga, the landscape changes dramatically as one reaches the northeast coast. Hidden behind Mt Agung and the small­er Mt Seraya on the easternmost tip of Bali , the east coast receives little rainfall, and bears a lot of resemblance to Lombok , visible across the strait. Clinging to austere slopes, small communities carve a tough living from peanuts, cassava and fishing. Tourism is sparse and provides only small additional income. It feels like another world as you drive along winding roads leading to black – sand beaches full of colourful jukung boats.  The area referred to by tourists as Amed Beach is a string of villages stretching to the east of the village of Amed . Tourism development started in this area only in the mid-90s, and in 1997, the Asian financial crisis put a halt to the building frenzy before it had a chance to ruin Amed like it did Candidasa and Lovina. Today, Amed has good choice of hotels and dive shops pleas­antly scattered along the coast. Several hotel owners are taking steps to preserve their environment, working with fishermen to clean the beach or organizing waste recycling. This as area to relax, walk in the nearby hills, swim, explore great coral, and perhaps spot a dolphin.